The Process: How to Flip Furniture the Easy Way

Step.1 Choosing a Piece of Furniture

Choosing the right piece of furniture to refinish is one of the most important steps in the process. Some pieces simply won’t look good no matter how much work you put into them, so it’s worth being selective. Look for quality construction—solid wood is always a great choice, as it holds up well to refinishing. I found all of my flips on Facebook Marketplace and highly recommend it as a source for budget-friendly finds. Pay attention to details like sturdy frames, dovetail joints, and real wood drawers, as these are signs of a well-made piece that will refinish beautifully.

Here are a few examples I found this morning on Marketplace. I see a lot of dressers like the one on the left, and while they’re good quality, I wouldn’t recommend buying them for a flip. Even when painted, they just don’t have the right look. The hardware doesn’t suit a painted finish, and the combination of curved drawer tops, curved base, and those little lines cut into the middle give it a dated feel. I’m not sure if it’s from the ‘90s, but it’s stuck in an awkward in-between—too new to be vintage and too old to feel modern. It was just a bad era for furniture design.

You also want to avoid dressers that are completely flat and boxy with no detail. I see a lot of plain chests and dressers like this, and they’re usually made of cheap materials that won’t take paint well or look high-end when refinished. Instead, look for pieces with solid wood construction, interesting details, and a classic shape that will stand the test of time.

The dresser on the right was selling for just $20! It’s solid wood, which is always a great find, and the existing hardware will look good painted—saving you money on new pulls. It also has beautiful detailing on the sides and base that will stand out even more with a fresh coat of paint. The only thing I’m not a fan of is the flower detailing on the front cabinet doors, but that’s an easy fix—I’d just sand those off for a cleaner look.

Step.2 Prepping for Paint

Start by removing all the hardware. If you're reusing it, give it a thorough wash with dish soap or TSP, then set it aside somewhere safe. Next, clean the entire piece of furniture with dish soap or TSP to remove any dirt, grease, or residue—I prefer using microfiber cloths for this step. Once it's dry, inspect the surface for scratches or dents and fill them with wood filler as needed. After the filler has dried, sand the entire piece. You don’t need to strip it down completely—just a light scuff sand to help the new paint adhere better.

Step.3 Prime & Paint

After sanding, wipe down the piece again to remove any dust. Next, apply a shellac-based primer—I used Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Base Sealer-Primer. It’s a bit pricey ($99 per can in Canada), but a 3.78-liter can lasts through multiple projects. This primer has a strong smell, so I highly recommend using a respirator mask rated for chemical fumes. For the best results with white paint, I found that rolling on two coats of primer with a small sponge roller before painting gave the smoothest, most even coverage.

I used Rustoleum Chalk Paint in White Linen. Since I planned on refinishing multiple pieces, I bought the 3.78-liter can. It looks like they’ve switched to selling smaller cans, but I was still able to find the 3.78L can on Walmart’s website for $146 (Canadian). I really enjoyed using this chalk paint—it goes on beautifully, is super forgiving, and leaves a smooth, matte finish. Typically, two coats of primer and two coats of paint gave the best results. I applied the chalk paint with a brush.

Step.4 Topcoat & Hardware

The topcoat was definitely the trickiest part for me. I experimented with several methods before landing on the one that worked best. My solution was to glue a small blue fabric foam roller to the roller handle, preventing it from rolling. For the topcoat, I’d dip the roller into Minwax Polycrylic and then drag it across the surface from one end to the other. After each pass, I’d dip the roller again and continue from where the last swipe ended. I found it best not to go over the surface too much — if you miss a spot on the first pass, don’t try to fix it until the second coat. Two coats usually did the trick, though sometimes I’d add a third coat on the top for extra durability.

Once the piece is fully coated and dry, it’s time to add the hardware. If you like the original hardware and it still suits the piece, give it a fresh look by painting it matte black or warm gold before reattaching it once dry. If you’re replacing the hardware, Amazon has some great budget-friendly options. The piece in the image above originally came from an old TV stand. I wanted to give it a mid-century modern credenza vibe, so I chose black and gold pulls to complement that aesthetic.

Step.5 Staging & Selling

Finally—my favorite step! This is where all your hard work pays off. Staging can make or break a sale, and I can’t emphasize its importance enough. My husband even started calling it staging sorcery because of how much it transformed the final look of the pieces.

Staging Tips:

Backdrop: A clean, neutral wall is key. Stick to white, off-white, or black—no grey! The grey trend is over, and staging your furniture in a dated-looking space makes the piece feel outdated too.

Flooring: Wood floors look best. If you don’t have them, a beautiful area rug can work. Avoid carpet—it can make your furniture look out of place. In the image below, I staged the piece in an unfinished basement bedroom with concrete floors. The “wood” floor you see is actually a roll of laminate flooring I bought for $20 on Marketplace just for staging.

Decor: Use modern, stylish decor to elevate the look. Some of my favorite staging elements are:

• Black and white photos in gold or black frames
• Plants for a fresh, natural touch
• Vases (ceramic or glass)
• Books to add height and dimension

Grouping: When styling your decor, use groups of three with varying heights for a balanced look.

Photography Tips:

Lighting is everything! Natural light is best—try to take photos during the brightest part of the day.

Take multiple angles to showcase the piece fully. Get a straight-on shot, a side angle, and a close-up of any interesting details.

Keep the focus on the furniture—avoid clutter or anything that distracts from the piece.

A well-staged and well-photographed piece sells faster and for a higher price—it’s worth the extra effort!